It started as an idea a few months before, to re-visit the Jeff Davis Mine in the Crooked River goldfields above Dargo and then take the run up to Mt Blue Rag – a mid week outing for the people of leisure and a weekend bit thrown in for the workers.
After coffee and a chit chat at Yarragon we hit the road to the Billabong Roadhouse at Fernbank for cheap fuel, then meandered up to Dargo for lunch before heading into the bush. Italian Flat was our first camp site.
The temperature was climbing and we kept a weather eye out for tell tale bushfire smoke. The dust made its presence felt for all except the leader. We continued along the Dargo River to Madigan’s Bridge. The ‘road’ got narrower until it was just a couple of wheel tracks that ended up at Harrison’s Cut, the place where the old prospectors diverted the Dargo River chasing alluvial gold. We headed for Matheson’s Spur track where men are men and the hills are vertical. First low was selected and we gently headed upwards. Eventually we emerged on the ridge line with the lovely smell of hot transmissions; only one hour into the 5 days and we were already nursing the vehicles. Chris, who was driving a Mitsubishi Challenger with road tyres and limited little stick time under his belt, was up to the challenge (no pun?) and came through with flying colours; any doubts about the Challenger’s tyres and clearance were soon put to rest. We now proceeded on a long loop back to Italian Flat via Mt Ewan Spur track which was pleasant until the last few km’s when it suddenly went very steeply down, down, down. Lots more use of the little stick now as we trundled down, engines howling at 4000 revs in first low and lots of brake pedal dabbing until we came out on the Upper Dargo Road again at Jimmy Iverson’s camping area.
A quick right turn and we were back at Italian Flat just as the hot northerly wind picked up and swept through the camping area. A few coldies later it was time for a dip in the river for some, followed by some more coldies (its okay, a few coldies are allowed when it’s hot!) then nibbles and eventually tea.
Friday morning was bright and clear and warming up as a long convoy of DSE utes went past in clouds of dust on their way to fire mopping up duty further east while some munched on bacon and eggs. Packed up and ready to go, we all aired down and immediately hit the bitumen on the Dargo High Plains Road. It was may be a bit ambitious airing down but what’s done is done. The bitumen extended 20 or so kms past the Grant turnoff so the long climb up to the high plains was done on soft rubber and was dust free. That didn’t last though as we rolled on looking for Jeff Davis Spur Track. The track is showing signs that it only gets the occasional vehicle even though it’s been widened as a fire break.
We pass Jeff Davis Spur track on our right which is just 2 overgrown ruts and continue downwards in 1st low on the main JD track until we come to one of those whoopsy doos that the DSE blokes put in, but this one’s a bit more serious and designed to stop vehicles, so we stop. The plan had been to drive as far as possible to the Jeff Davis mine grid reference, park the vehicles and search on foot for the mine entrance. It was obvious the DSE wanted to stop vehicles continuing down the track which is a super low 1st descent. It’s hot and blowing a warm breeze and a long walk back up so that plan is abandoned for another day. Back the way we came to the Jeff Davis Spur track to have a bit of a look. Most wait at the junction as Barry and the leader do a bit of exploring down the cut and polish track only to be stopped by a largish tree so another U turn and back out to the main High Plains road.
We head into Grant, stopping at the cemetery for a look at the old headstones then on to Grant and the Union Spur track. It’s mine time and most get torches for a quick reccy and a bit of standing in the dark of the Union mine. Lunch calls so we head back to the grass area out the front of the Jewellers Shop mine, some go exploring while others are into the nose bag. We head off for a descent of Collingwood Spur. It’s a long way down for those who haven’t been here before and we get some great views of CynthiaRange and Billy Goat Bluff and the Pinnacles from the helipad. At the bottom we do a bit of vehicle splashing at the junction of the Wongungarra and CrookedRivers before heading upstream on the CrookedRiver to Talbotville.
It’s a bit early to camp so we immediately head off up McMillan’s track to do the loop down Bulltown Spur and through the 22 crossings of the CrookedRiver. The track is well used and a bit of yawn until we get to the bottom and start the picturesque drive down the CrookedRiver. The river is knee deep and we enjoy the crossings until we get to about number 19 where the exit out of the river is a bit more of a challenge. Out with the cameras and 3 attempts later the leader manages to climb out of the hole without panel damage, others have a crack and one cheats a bit using a low crawler gear and front diff lock. Lots of wheel spinning and lifting of tyres make for some good photos while some choose to use the normal exit which is strategically hidden around a slight bend.
Adrenalin pumping, we head off for the last few crossings and end up at Talbotville. It’s still hot, so tents are quickly erected and chairs are placed in the river and we settle in for a few beers intermingled with a bit of paddling to cool off. Soon the cows arrive. Yep lots of them. After a bit of cow pollution swimming is suspended for the day.
Saturday morning is cool and the cows return and wander through camp as we watch a one day old calf ford the river protected by its mum. Today we head north so it’s back through a couple of Crooked River crossings until we hit South Basalt Knob track, find low range and keep on climbing to the first helipad for the day. The whoopsy doos are numerous and steep and there is some underbelly scraping and tow ball crunching but we all make it safely. Continuing on South Basalt Knob track we meander along the ridge line for kms until we come to an unmarked junction and decide to stop and consult the map over a cuppa. We veer right and calmly proceed along the ridges until we come to another junction at what the map says is an Historic Railway Carriage. Sure enough, it’s a train carriage sitting out in the bush at 1400m above sea level. It rings a bell with the leader who realises he’s been here before on a much earlier jaunt to Blue Rag. Everyone wants to have a look and we soon realise it’s an old cool room carriage and was probably put there years ago as a fire refuge.
The track becomes Basalt Knob North track. It gets a bit more remote and unused as we enter the 2003 wildfire complex with lots of silvery dead trees looking like a matchstick forest. We are still climbing and break through 1600m. It’s a bit surreal being surrounding by whole forests of dead trees and as we get higher there are a few that have tumbled over the track in places. Next thing the phone rings and around the corner we emerge on a clearing and can see Mt Hotham village across the valley. Mt Blue Rag track is clearly visible but we stop and take in the views and answer numerous message bank messages, you just can’t go anywhere these days without being tracked. We head off to Mt Blue Rag track and turn left towards the trig point. It’s one of the best drives in the high country for grand vista views; and a narrow track that drops off on both sides so that sometimes there is just blue sky in front of you. The track is good and has been civilised a bit with a bulldozer to take out the wheel spinning bits but it’s still a memorable drive, low range most of the way. At the top the map says 1721m and there is a strong breeze blowing.
After a group photo and a few looks over the edge, yep all of its 360 degrees has an edge, we decide to follow the track to its end and hopefully a camp site that we can fit into. The map says there’s a river and it has a little blue tent symbol, so off we go. It also says ‘Possibly longest public access vehicle descent dead end track in Australia (over 1200 vertical metres)’. We continue downwards in low range, 9km’s in total. The valley is getting narrower and showing signs of ending up at a dodgy little clearing until you cross the upper headwaters of the WongungarraRiver. A very nice little spot with fast flowing deepish water in places. The sites are limited so we camp on the track while the Bulls set up camp through the final river crossing. Everyone went for a dip even those who left their cosies’ at home.
Sunday was an early start and we climbed back up to the trig point and then headed out to the Dargo High Plains road where we turned left and followed it through to the Mt Hotham road and came out at Mt St Bernard. On the bitumen at last, it was a quick decision to head towards Mt Hotham village for a coffee and to air up. We lined up for another photo and broke out the air pumps as a few curious Korean blokes watched us pump up the tyres. Turns out they were testing some disguised left hand drive Hyundai wagons and vans, maybe a future model release for Oz? The coffee shop was no-where to be seen soit was a quick run out to Dinner Plain and coffee and cake all round. The temperature was cool but we knew it was going to be a hot windy 38 or so down off the mountain so we lingered on a bit and took in the sights of the village. We had a pleasant drive down through Harrietville and had lunch on the banks of the OvensRiver at Bright.
While some of the party headed for home the rest of us camped at Porepunkah on the river. We dutifully put the chairs in the river and had a beer or so. What was left of the afternoon was spent doing nothing but cooling off, then the usual nibbles and so on.
Monday was a tourist day and we went to Brown Brothers, a bakery cum coffee shop, a lavender/olive/ doily & tea towel type shop (not for very long) and a cheese factory. You need a big wallet to do this type of stuff. Then it was a long drive home. Thanks to all for a good trip. The Jeff Davis mine survives for another day.