b'dangerous crossings more than 1100 sand dunes, itfront of the famous Pink Oodnadatta Roadhouse.is known to be the most demanding in the SimpsonTime to hit the road towards William Creek, Desert with very soft sand and was slow going.on the way we called into a couple of old ruins When topping a hill, you see a long straight roadscattered along the road, then Stuart made a radio bordered by low vegetation disappearing into thecall asking if anyone would like to go into the old horizon, eventually driving to that horizon and overtelegraph station approximately 20 kms in, I was the the top and there would be another visual just theonly one answering the rest of the convoy continued same as we had just driven across. Eventually weinto William Creek to arrange a flight over Lake arrived at Purni Bore, it was drilled in 1964 by theEyre.French Petroleum Company tapping into the GreatMeanwhile Stuart had already turned off into the Artesian Basin, the water flow exited the groundold Telegraph station as he was well ahead of me, at 85 degrees Celsius and the flow rate at overfinally I reached the site 19 kms into a real surprise, 1.5 million litres a day, when the oil explorationhealthy palm trees and vegetation around a small activities ceased in the early 80s, the bore wasartesian area, expecting just to see maybe an old left to flow openly creating an artificial wetland,building ruin but there was more lots more this in its peak over 80 species of birds were recorded.turned out to be not only a small telegraph station Lobbying from the environmentalists had thebut a small copper mine and smelter. The smelter bore recased and restricted to slow the flow downwas tiered into the mountain with a copper mine enough to maintain the wildlife in the area that nowlocated right on the top of the mountain. Many of had relied on this water source, the main reason forthe old machine parts are still scattered around capping this flow was because it was upsetting thethe site, the site operated around the 1850s to water levels throughout the Dalhousie water system1904, it wasnt hard to see the pride in the building 70 kilometres away. workmanship constructions the property, signage Dalhousie Springs is our next stop, also known asstated that this is now owned by the Kidman family WitjiraDalhousie Springs which is within a groupcattle grazing company. On arrival into William of over 60 natural artesian springs located in theCreek, we had to wait an hour for a larger plane to Witjira National Park on the western fringe of thearrive suitable for 6 adults or more the flight was Simpson Desert. amazing.After arriving it didnt take long to find ourHaving the opportunity to actually see Lake swimmers and jump into the spring for a well arentEyre in flood near full of bird life thriving to see dip. waterways directing flow as far as the eye could The water temperature was absolutely perfect,see and the natural land formation channelled and the water was nice, clean and the little blackcontrolled by the water flow directions.34 cm fish swimming around us cleaning offThe young pilot worked seasonally in William any dead or dried skin on our bodiesreallyCreek township doing a variety of shared jobs, in therapeutic. While we were in the springs it wasthe cafe, accommodation, cleaning and the list went a good opportunity to swap information withon. Basically, this was a great opportunity for him fellow travellers giving us the inside info on whatto build up his flying hours fast and affordable and we should look out for up ahead. The swim waswork with like-minded people.fabulous, but all good things must end. The town is famous for the William Creek Hotel, It was time to gather around and confirmone of the worlds most remote pubs, the town was thoughts of our direction and fuel supplies, we allonce on the Old Ghan Railway line, it is renowned decided to alter our original trip and incorporatefor being the smallest town in Australia with a William Creek for a flight over Lake Eyre as this wascurrent permanent population of 3, in the busy a fairly rare sight opportunity to capitalise on theseason the town grows to 10. In this area is Anna extreme flooding Queensland had been suffering.Creek stationthe largest working cattle station in With our fuel levels under control, we visitedthe world sprawling over 15,746 square kilometres Dalhousie area ruins, down to Pedirka ruin alongand encompassing 5 large cattle stations and a large the side of the Old Ghan line, then out to Hamiltonbull breeding programme.onto the heritage trail to Oodnadatta to refuel andThe next overnight stay was in Coober Pedy camp for the night. Next morning all packed up andwhere we said goodbye to Stefan as he was leaving refreshed we took a photo opportunity of the fleet inus to go back home. We all weakened and chose to TRACKWATCH|March 2023 27'